COLD CROCODILES

This scenario is a classic, with over 100 playings on the ASL Record. Not only is it an exciting combination of forces, but it's also well balanced between two evenly matched opponents. The German player defends in a small village with modest numbers of stone buildings, and woods. They must be sure that the British do not infiltrate across the sole bridge over the canal to gain the numerous VP on the other side. The British must inflict casualties and capture stone buildings to win. They must cross relatively open terrain early in the game to achieve their objectives. Much of the game depends on how the attacker uses smoke to foster the advance.

The Germans get an excellent late war infantry force with 2 major league ATGs (88LLs), and reinforcemtns of 2 JagdPanzer IVs. The ATGs are guaranteed to blow away any tank they hit and even some infantry, while the JgPz IVs can handle the lighter tanks, but is poorly matched against infantry and the British Crocodiles. An important weapon in the German arsenal is the lowly infantry PF. Don't forget about these inherent one shots, they can blow away any tank and can reduce infantry behind walls or in buildings.

The British get a modest infantry force with 2 Cromwells, 2 Challengers, an Offboard Observer, and reinforcements of infantry and 2 Crocodiles. The Cromwells and Challengers are lightly armored by late war standards, but they're well armed for the attack; the Challengers (76LL) should be used against the JgPzs, and the Cromwells against the infantry (75), but both tanks should be used to generate smoke (sM and S). In contrast, the Crocs are the ultimate infantry support weapon with a FT (36 FP!), 75 mm gun, MGs, and tons of smoke-making capabilities (sM, sD, WP, and S)!

Before play begins, be sure to agree with your opponent as to whether the Rowhouses are individual buildings or one building. I've generally played with them as a complex of Rowhouses representing one building.

DEFENDER: GERMAN

The German player must make the most of deception. Proper use of HIP, gaining or retaining concealment, and skulking are required for an effective defense. Placement of the two ATGs, HIP units, and the division of forces between the two boards are decisive factors. While the initial set up is important, the game isn't completely lost given a marginal setup, primarily because of the internal lines of movement. Be sure to shift the defense to meet the main line of the British attack.

Possible GUN Locations: Note that the ATGs can remain HIP only if emplaced; they cannot be emplaced in a paved road hex. Thus, ATGs can setup HIP in the orchard roads on Bd 23, but they're revealed as concealed units as soon as an enemy unit has a LOS. Note also that the ATG are too big to set up in buildings (B23.423). Don't forget that orchard and brush are concealment terrain but ATG don't suffer the double penalty for changing CA therein as they do in woods (and conditional ROF, too).

• 23V10 is too exposed, but it cuts into initial British movement. This position may take a tank or two before it falls to OBA (with -1 TEM for Air Bursts) or infantry fire. The problem comes later, when the ATG will be desperately needed to engage the Crocodiles. Don't forget that an ATG counts as 4 VP when captured. If it's setup forward, be sure to use Intensive Fire to maximize the probability of an AFV kill.
• 23T8 has some promise but it will probably fall early. The positon has LOS to 24X4 and 24Y6 where British AFVs may disembark their riders; it covers Bd 23 roads; and it can provide fire support against 23W8 and 23X8. Yet, it has poor LOS for sustained action.
• 23T10, 24T1, 24T2, and 24U2 are susceptible to the -1 TEM of OBA airbursts. Harrassing OBA can make these hexes untenable. 23T10 has some decent LOSs but the position can be hard to defend.
• 24Q2 covers the bridge and roads of Bd 23, and provides LOF to important locations on Bd 24 (24U5, 24U6, 24T4, 24T5). The position is also susceptible to airbursts. It puts the ATG back for longer play, and deception.
• 24O6 is an important position. It is blind to most AR for OBA (depends on location of observer). It covers the center of the entering British reinforcements. It has LOS to 24I7, and 24I8, and so helps against flanking moves, and it can be defended by the infantry.
• 24L7 and 24I7 are excellent positions for covering the British reinforcements. 24L7 may be easily assaulted by a careful player using infantry to search locations before entry of the AFVs.
• 24N1 may look like a good position due to its LOS but it suffers being in the woods (OBA Air Bursts), and placement away from the centers of attack.
• 24P7 is exposed, but otherwise in the center of the area for the entering British reinforcements.
• 24J6 counters a major British flanking effort, but it doesn't defend well against chief objectives in the village.
• 24K8, 24L8 are too exposed; they will fall quickly to British infantry.
• 24F7, 24G5 are too far in the rear unless expecting a major British flanking effort. These positions will have targets but usually only minor ones.

• 23V6 with a 238 or 548 is good for covering the road and possible infiltration into building 23Y7.
• Consider 24J10 or 24O10 for suicide PF squads to get a Croc, but know that a cautious opponent will search these hexes with infantry.
• Some of the above gun locations make good spots for hiding HS or full squads.
• Other locations include 24M6 (with LMG for firelane thru L6-E10), 24N7 and 24J8 (for suicide stand), 24U9 and 24T9 (to stifle an edge creep).

• 23V6 and above positions for HIP units.
• 24V3 - 548
• 24V6 - 548
• 24V7 - ?, ?
• 24T9 - ?, ?
• 24U9 - 548, LMG (alternate with 24T9)
• 24T6 - 548, LMG (or 24S8, or MMG; this squad needs to be in 24S7 by Turn 4 to cover the R6/Q7 firelane)
• 24S5 - 548, HMG, 9-2 (alternate with 24T6, or 24R4)
• 24R4 - ?, ?, ?, ?
• 23U8 - 548, LMG
• 23U9 - 548
• 23S9 - 8-0 (to rally the meager forces on this side)
• 23O10 - 548, MMG, 8-1 (for firelane down road; leader can hotfoot it over to 24R4 if needed.) Of course you could instead put an HIP unit here to confuse your opponent!
• Additional dummy stacks can go in the central woods (T, U, V), next to the orchard road (23S8), or to bolster the right flanks (24K8 or J8 or elsewhere).

Notes:

• Outlying squads need to skulk and fall back. They can be too easily overpowered by combined attacks with smoke and CC. Their job is to delay the British advance.
• Important buildings are 24T6, 24S5, and 23O10.
• The ATGs are the linchpins of the defense; they each must account for at least 1-2 tanks before they fall. They should be used to kill the Crocodiles as the Crocs are the major threat to the Germans. Sometimes the threat of a HIP ATG can be as good at slowing the assault as an exposed one.

ATTACKER: BRITISH

The key to the assault is smoke; smoke from the tanks with their smoke mortars and main armament capabilities (this is the main role for the Challengers early in the game), smoke from the OBA with its virtually guaranteed battery access, smoke from the light mortars, and even smoke from the elite infantry with their inherent capability. But don't forget, movement is also critical. The British can only linger for a turn or two before the situation goes from tough to hopeless.

Turn 1 Group:
BEFORE YOU MOVE, DON'T FORGET YOUR OFFBOARD OBSERVER. OBA is critical to the game. It's needed right from the start to either lay harrassing fire to weed out the ATGs or smoke to sustain the attack. One to two hexes of smoke will effectively blind defensive fire (+6 or +7) and will allow the British to swamp a position or two early in the game. OBA activities occur at the beginning of the Prep Fire Phase, which is after the setup of reinforcements but before movement.

Most players agree that the British left flank (Bd 24) offers the best avenue for attack. It has cover for both infantry and tanks, routing terrain to sustain the attack, and paths for quick movement. The British right provides cover in the way of buildings but there are numerous open ground and road hexes to be crossed and bottlenecks to overcome. There are, however, more stone buildings on Bd 23 than Bd 24 (10 + 4 across the canal vs. 6, respectively), and the stone wall around building 23Y7 is as good as most buildings. But this is where the smoke is a necessity, without the proper use of smoke a small German force can delay the British right. Successful attacks can, however, come from either flank.

An attack on the Left could look like this:
Consider a detachment of 2.5-3 squads, 9-1, LMG, MRT, PIAT, and 2 Challengers to grab the buildings on the right. The Challengers provide smoke for cover and advance, and are later in position to attack the JgPzIVs. The force is small but it will certainly help in the mid game. If the German player has weighted this flank, the British force should be able to hold out while the left flank takes control of the village.

The rest of the force goes in on the left flank. The Cromwells could make it to 24Y9 (bypass), or 24X5 to unload their riders. The rest of the infantry should hotfoot (CX) it over to 24Z9 and thereabouts on Turn 1. A Cromwell or Challenger could go to 24BB1 or 24BB2 to eventually blow smoke on 24V3 or threaten interdiction in 24S4.

The attack on the Right could look like this:
"Take the majority of the force hard to the right with only a platoon (3 squads w/8-0 & MTRs) to the left along with a Cromwell. The 10-2 & 9-1 go right along with the remaining tanks. The Challengers provide smoke early and look to setup to deny the TDs the bridge. The goal is to be in position at the bridge when the TDs enter and depending on German setup you can move towards the center after securing the right. Ideally you get a half squad with a Piat over the bridge to snag buildings or at least play with the TDs. [I've never been able to get any British forces over the bridge. - Jeff Shields] With the reinforcements coming in on the left flank, they can waste the village if needed and smash the Germans in between the 2 strong forces..." - Bret Hildebran

Turn 4 Reinforcements:
It's difficult to predict how to use the reinforcements. In general, the infantry come in around 24M10 and help support the Crocs. The Crocs can actually enter play and fire on Turn 4 if necessary but beware the hidden ATG. Typical tactics for the Crocs against ATG include using sM to blow smoke in a forward, adjacent hex which is then moved into just prior to the flame attack (at 9 or 18 +3). Against infantry, keep the Crocs at two to three hexes and in motion (for an 8 or 16 +0 attack). Always keep the Crocs in motion as otherwise they're big targets that can be destroyed with relative impunity by inherent PFs (2 hexes away a PF needs a 5 TH vs. a moving Croc, a 7 TH vs. a stopped one). A Croc can easily move up to 24Q8 and flame 24Q6, 24R5, 24S7, or 24S8 on Turn 4.

Notes:

• Don't forget that the FTs on the Crocs have a Normal Range of 2, and a Long Range of 3.
• Did I say SMOKE?! Know it, love it, but most of all USE it!
• "The best way to play this one is to not keep track of VP as you go, just keep pushing and playing and killing and when the last die is thrown, start counting things up." - Carl Fago
• "As a side note - I've talked to some very good players who feel it's pro-British. I don't necessarily agree to the extent they made their case, but would prefer the Brits I guess - especially if they're getting smoke when needed." - Bret Hildebran
• "I come from the other side: I prefer the Germans. Here's why: Cold Crocs is a balanced scenario. But, it takes a little more finesse, IMHO, to play the Brits. You really need to use Smoke, concealment, lt. mortars well to win. In short, it is easier to screw up as the Brits than as the Germans. Hence, I'll put the onus on my opponent." - Dade Cariaga

Note that other AARs for this scenario can also be found on Mike Clay's ASL page.